Wolverine World Wide Inc /De/ Q3 FY2025 Earnings Call
Wolverine World Wide Inc /De/ (WWW)
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Auto-generated speakersGreetings, and welcome to the Wolverine Worldwide Third Quarter Fiscal 2025 Earnings Call. As a reminder, this conference is being recorded. It is now my pleasure to introduce your host, Jared Filippone, Head of Investor Relations. Jared, you may begin.
Good morning, and welcome to our third quarter fiscal 2025 conference call. On the call today are Chris Hufnagel, President and Chief Executive Officer; and Taryn Miller, Chief Financial Officer. Earlier this morning, we issued a press release announcing our financial results for the third quarter of 2025 and guidance for fiscal year 2025. The press release is available on many news sites and can be viewed on our corporate website. This morning's press release and comments made during today's earnings call include non-GAAP financial measures. These non-GAAP financial measures were reconciled to the most comparable GAAP financial measures and attached tables within the body of the release or on our Investor Relations page on our website. I'd also like to remind you that statements describing the company's expectations, plans, predictions and projections, such as those regarding the company's outlook for fiscal year 2025, growth opportunities and trends expected to affect the company's future performance made during today's conference call are forward-looking statements under U.S. securities laws. As a result, we must caution you that there are a number of factors that could cause actual results to differ materially from those described in the forward-looking statements. These important risk factors are identified in the company's SEC filings and in our press releases. Additionally, during the quarter, we elected to change our accounting policy for certain inventory from LIFO to FIFO. The majority of our distribution warehouse inventory was already accounted for using FIFO, and this change aligns all warehouse inventory under a consistent policy. The financial statements in today's release and the numbers referenced on the call reflect the impact of this accounting change for both the current and prior year periods, which have been retrospectively adjusted. With that, I will now turn the call over to Chris Hufnagel.
Thanks, Jared. Good morning, everyone, and thanks for joining us on today's call. In the third quarter, we exceeded our expectations on both the top and bottom line. Revenue grew approximately 7%, in line with our long-term target of mid- to high single-digit growth and was again driven by our two largest brands, Merrell and Saucony. Healthy revenue growth, coupled with another quarter of record gross margin and strong execution, delivered adjusted earnings per share of $0.36. Adjusted EPS grew at more than triple the rate of top line growth as we continue to prudently manage the business, balancing the needed and important investment into the business while expanding profitability. Our strategy and disciplined execution continue to deliver solid results, and our team remains focused on executing our brand-building model with distinction, centered squarely on building awesome products, telling amazing stories and driving the business. As I reflect on where our portfolio is today and where we need to go tomorrow, it's clear our brands are at three different stages of development. First, Merrell and Saucony are moving at pace, taking market share and generating consistent revenue growth around the world. Our aim here is to continue to thoughtfully manage these brands to sustainably scale them to their fullest potential. We've made real progress in elevating design and innovation within their product pipeline as well as in strengthening their brand positioning through impactful marketing activations. For 2025, these two brands are expected to represent nearly two-thirds of the company's total revenue and record mid-teens year-over-year growth combined. Second, we believe Sweaty Betty has begun to turn the corner, the result of a lot of hard work in developing a new strategy and beginning to execute it over the past six months. The brand has delivered on the milestones that we believe are critical at this point in its evolution, which started with margin expansion and has transitioned to sequential improvement of year-over-year revenue trends. And finally, the Wolverine brand and our Work Group have not made the progress we anticipated. While I'm disappointed in our performance here, I believe we have a firm handle on the work that's necessary to get this business back on track. And importantly, we have new leadership in place. As of Monday, following a thorough search process, I'm pleased to announce Justin Cupps as our new Work Group President. Justin is a veteran leader with deep experience across a host of great footwear, apparel and accessory brands. He's a strong addition to our leadership team. For some context, Work Group revenue represents less than one-fourth of the company's consolidated revenue and is now expected to finish the year down high single digits compared to 2024. In aggregate, I'm encouraged by the progress we've made and continue to make as a company. This year, we've elevated our teams and talent by adding excellent leadership like Justin, as well as new product design, merchandising, marketing and sales talent across our brands. We've improved our processes, including our integrated business planning approach for more efficient demand and inventory management. We successfully completed the integration of Sweaty Betty's tools and processes into the company's ecosystem, advanced the adoption and use of AI across the business, and developed plans to further elevate and modernize our e-commerce tools and platform next year. We've developed new muscles to drive impact in the global marketplace with our key city strategy, and we fostered a new culture centered around growth and winning together. In addition to the above, we expect to deliver solid financial results for the year. The midpoint of our guidance reflects revenue growth of approximately 6%, an increase in adjusted earnings per share of approximately 50% compared to 2024. Before I turn the call over to Taryn Miller to provide greater detail on our third quarter results and outlook for the year, I'd like to share some additional insights on our brands and their continued progress. I'll start with Saucony, which grew 27% in the third quarter. Saucony is uniquely positioned as a disruptive challenger brand at the intersection of two of the fastest-growing categories in the market, performance and lifestyle running, and the brand continues to win in these highly competitive arenas. In the third quarter, Saucony grew performance run revenue by strong double digits globally compared to last year and again took market share in the important U.S. run specialty channel, powered in part by the brand's core four franchises: the Ride, Guide, Hurricane, and Triumph, which target its movemaker consumer. While the brand successfully tapped into this broader market opportunity, it continues to maintain a strong focus on pinnacle innovation for elite runners with its Endorphin franchise. The collection includes the Endorphin Speed for serious training, the Endorphin Pro for race day, and the Endorphin Elite super shoe for ultimate performance. In 2026, the brand plans to introduce the all-new Endorphin Azura, a premium non-plated trainer targeting a larger consumer segment and growing opportunity within the market. In addition to further elevating franchises within the core four with innovation incubated within the aforementioned Endorphin series. On the lifestyle side, Saucony drove strong revenue growth globally and took significant market share here in the U.S. as we continue to focus on prudently growing this segment of the business around the world. The brand's deep product archive enables it to authentically capitalize on a variety of different trends. ProGrid Omni 9 and Ride Millennium, two of the brand's retro tech silhouettes, again drove significant growth in Q3. While classics like the Jazz Original and Shadow 5000 are encouragingly beginning to spark interest for 2026 with influential Tier 0 and Tier 1 retailers. Saucony continues to fuel brand heat with culturally relevant collaborations, releasing new drops over the past few months, including 3sixteen, Keith Haring, Jae Tips and Engineered Garments. Saucony collaborated with METAGIRL on a release last quarter, which successfully led to the brand's significant opportunity with women, marking the beginning of a deeper anticipated partnership with the influential designer going forward. In addition, the brand plans on dropping its first collaboration with prominent creator Westside Gunn in December, with an expanded relationship and more drops expected next year. Saucony's brand is strong around the world, and we continue to invest in the brand in the last quarter, in part through our key city strategy. Saucony continued to leverage Tokyo in the Asia Pacific region with the flagship store opened in Harajuku earlier this year and is on track to open a host of new stores more broadly in China with our partner there. We expect that APAC will be the fastest-growing region in the world for the brand this year. In Europe, Saucony took over Central London as the title sponsor of the London 10K in July and followed this up with the sponsorship of the Shoreditch 10K in September, bookends to a powerful quarter for the brand in London and more broadly in the EMEA region, which as a whole is on track to deliver strong double-digit revenue growth this year with momentum heading into 2026. Looking ahead, Saucony plans to expand its key city strategy to Paris, sponsoring the Eiffel Tower 10K next month and opening our next pioneer store there in 2026. Brand interest continues to ramp up globally and affinity for the brand continues to increase with runners and more specifically, the younger consumer. While we continue to have success here in our home market, I'm equally excited about the global potential of the brand. Saucony's positioning within the fast-growing run lifestyle market is unique and a compelling combination of heritage and authenticity, coupled with best-in-class innovation and developing cultural relevance, positions the brand to set the pace. 2025 is proving to be a great year for Saucony, which is on track to deliver all-time record revenue and profit. Moving to Merrell, which grew revenue 5% in the third quarter, driving increases in most regions and in both the performance and lifestyle sides of this business. Merrell, the category leader in hike, remains focused on modernizing the trail as an authentic outdoor lifestyle brand with more athletic and versatile product design and innovation. In the third quarter, the brand accelerated its long-running market share gains in its core Hike category in the U.S., having taken share in 11 of the last 12 quarters, a category which encouragingly again improved sequentially to flat year-over-year. The Moab Speed 2 is becoming a force on the trail, and the world's #1 hiker, the Moab 3, continue to drive growth at U.S. retail. The Agility Peak 5 drove strong growth on the trail running side. Looking ahead to next spring, Merrell plans to introduce the new Agility Peak 6, combining plush FloatPro foam cushioning with aggressive Vibram Megagrip traction. Merrell's lifestyle business saw strong double-digit growth in the third quarter, driven by a ramp-up of its disruptive Wrapt Collection, along with steady growth from the iconic easy-on, easy-off Jungle Moc at U.S. retail. In 2026, we anticipate the brand's lifestyle product pipeline will take a meaningful step forward. We're introducing trend-right low-profile silhouettes with the Relay, modern iterations on the Jungle Moc, lifestyle materializations of the SpeedARC collection, and a consistent flow of energy-enhancing collaborations. While we're further distancing ourselves from the competition in hike, we know a significant global opportunity exists in outdoor-inspired footwear, apparel and accessories. In the third quarter, Merrell drove increases in brand interest and affinity, particularly with women, and the brand's key city strategy continues to fuel momentum for the brand around the world as it has done for Saucony. Merrell's Urban Hiking Guide activation, which included media events, collaborations and influencers, drove brand heat in Paris and contributed to another quarter of solid growth in broader EMEA. Turning to Sweaty Betty, which outpaced our expectations in the third quarter with revenue down 4% versus the prior year. The team is aligned around a clear strategy and is executing with a high level of conviction and increased confidence as we reinvigorate Sweaty Betty as one of the original activewear brands focused on empowering women through fitness and beyond. Our efforts started with reestablishing Sweaty Betty's premium brand positioning, which underpins our entire strategy. Bold and distinctive storytelling behind the Wear the Damn Shorts campaign in the second quarter and the Weather Whatever campaign last quarter have continued to reinforce the brand's uniquely female-focused positioning. As a result, brand awareness and affinity have continued to increase in the quarter with noteworthy gains among younger consumers and more premium buyers. At the same time, gross margins expanded once again as the brand continues to strengthen both its product pipeline and positioning in the marketplace. Along with the improved business results, we're also making meaningful progress against the three pillars of our brand's new strategy. First, we are delivering growth within our DTC business in Sweaty Betty's home market with both e-commerce and stores growing in the third quarter. We started to elevate the brand's product line by introducing fresh offerings with trend-right designs and more thoughtful assortments, diversifying the brand's leadership in bottoms and expanding outerwear. This effort has produced encouraging results with pants and outerwear both up very strong double digits across our DTC business in the quarter. Within our digital channels, we remain focused on enhancing the consumer experience. One example is the new Sweaty Betty app, launched last quarter, where consumers are converting at a higher rate and spending more per transaction. In brick-and-mortar, we've taken action over the past few months to further optimize our retail footprint, relocating three stores, opening one new store and closing a store. The new locations are performing well, and before the year is done, we plan to open five more new stores. Second, we're making early progress in expanding distribution in certain key markets. We launched the brand's new partnership in China, opened a pop-up store in Shanghai, opened a second store with our partner in New Zealand, and developed plans to open additional stores in Australia and India next year. In the third quarter, the brand's international third-party business was up meaningfully, along with the EMEA wholesale business, albeit both still on a small basis. Third, we're resetting our U.S. operations focused on a full-price more premium online DTC business. We anticipate this transition will take some time and put pressure on the brand's global growth numbers in the near term, but we believe it's necessary. This pivot is in motion, with the business mix already shifting to more full-price premium selling. We're making progress in resetting the overall Sweaty Betty business, and we believe the brand product marketing team is strong. We've seen improvement in the year-over-year top line trends and expect this to continue in the brand's critical final quarter of the year. And now finishing with Wolverine, which was down 8% in the quarter with the broader Work Group down 3%. Wolverine's performance remains inconsistent. Our return to running a better brand and business is taking longer than we initially anticipated. That said, we believe we have diagnosed the challenges. We're effectively using our proven playbook to return the brand to steady growth in the future. The addition of Justin Cupps to the team is a win for the company, and I anticipate he will accelerate the needed progress here. We're already well on the way to strengthening Wolverine's product pipeline, enabling more thoughtful segmentation in the marketplace and bolstering trend-right products and premium price point offerings with collections like the Rancher Pro, the USA-built Workshop Wedge, and the all-new Infinity System, the brand's pinnacle expression of its performance comfort technology. Wolverine is in the process of amplifying its storytelling as well. The brand has partnered with Country Music star Jordan Davis this year in a variety of activations, featuring both in-line and dedicated products. I'm excited to announce this morning that Wolverine will be an exclusive presenting partner for Season 2 of the Paramount+ series Landman, with the premiere in just a couple of weeks on November 16. Both of these partnerships align well with the Wolverine brand and extend its reach significantly with consumers. As the product and marketing improvements begin to take root, we plan to focus on recalibrating the marketplace, better balancing inventories and aligning distribution with the brand's category leadership role, more premium positioning and go-forward strategy. More to come on this as we enter the new year. I'd like to hand the call over to Taryn Miller to take you through our third quarter results and outlook for the remainder of 2025 in greater detail. Taryn?
Thank you, Chris, and welcome, everyone. We delivered another quarter of strong results, exceeding expectations on both revenue and profitability. Our third quarter performance reflects disciplined execution of our strategy and the dedication of our teams. Our focus remains on implementing our brand-building growth model across the portfolio, starting with our two largest brands, Merrell and Saucony. Prioritizing investments in these brands has led to improved performance and market share gains in key categories. We are also seeing encouraging signs of progress in other areas, including another quarter of sequential improvement for Sweaty Betty. While there's still more work to do, particularly in the Work Group, we remain confident in our strategy and the path forward. I'll now take you through the key highlights from our third quarter. Revenue was $470 million, ahead of the $455 million midpoint of our guidance range. The over-delivery was driven by stronger-than-expected performance in the Active Group, along with an approximate $3 million benefit from favorable foreign currency. Revenue increased 7% compared to the prior year. On a constant currency basis, revenue increased 6% as favorable foreign currency provided a $6 million benefit. Revenue growth in the third quarter was led by global wholesale, which increased 11% compared to the prior year, with international wholesale up mid-teens and U.S. wholesale up mid-single digits. DTC declined 5% compared to the prior year, primarily due to lower promotional activity in the U.S., partially offset by international growth mainly in EMEA. Active Group revenue in the third quarter grew 11% compared to the prior year, ahead of our guidance of mid-single-digit growth. Saucony revenue increased 27% in the quarter, driven by broad-based growth across channels and markets. The brand saw solid growth in both the performance run and lifestyle categories from continued positive sell-through trends at retail and expanded distribution. Merrell revenue increased 5% in the quarter, driven by low double-digit growth in wholesale. This growth was supported by another quarter of market share gains in the hike category and strong sell-through at key accounts. This was partially offset by the DTC channel as the brand continues to lap elevated promotional activity from the prior year. Merrell has been implementing targeted initiatives to strengthen its DTC foundation, including refining its promotional strategy, elevating marketing to reinforce premium positioning, and enhancing digital capabilities to drive higher quality engagement and conversion. These efforts contributed to an improvement in the mix of full-price sales and gross margin expansion in the quarter. Sweaty Betty revenue declined 4% in the quarter, which was better than expected. As Chris mentioned, the brand is now executing on a clear strategy to reset the Sweaty Betty business, which aided in delivering growth in its core EMEA market across both wholesale and DTC. Group revenue declined 3% compared to the prior year and was slightly below the midpoint of our guidance range. Performance in the quarter was largely driven by lower-than-expected sell-through that impacted replenishment orders. Consolidated gross margin for the third quarter was 47.5%, an increase of 240 basis points compared to the prior year and 50 basis points above our expectations. The year-over-year improvement reflects product cost savings, lower promotional activity, and a timing benefit from our tariff mitigation efforts, net of incremental tariff costs. Adjusted operating margin was 9.1%, an increase of 150 basis points compared to the prior year and 80 basis points above our expectations. This performance reflects gross margin expansion, continued investment in our brands, talent and key capabilities, as well as the net timing benefit from our tariff mitigation efforts. Top line growth and operating margin expansion led to a 29% increase in adjusted diluted earnings per share to $0.36 compared to $0.28 in the prior year and our outlook of $0.28 to $0.32. Net debt at the end of the third quarter was $543 million, down $20 million or 4% compared to the same time last year. Before moving to our outlook, I want to provide an update on the impact of tariffs. This has been a dynamic situation with rate changes and evolving clarity around the timing of when the new tariffs took effect. On our last call, we shared that we expected to offset the majority of the unmitigated impact in 2025, which we estimated to be approximately $20 million. We also noted that the majority of the impact was anticipated to occur in the fourth quarter. We now expect the unmitigated impact in 2025 to be approximately $10 million. The reduction in the estimated impact reflects a timing shift between 2025 and 2026. We took quick and decisive action when trade policy changed in the second quarter of this year. As a result of those actions and the timing shift, we now expect to more than offset the $10 million impact in 2025. On an annualized basis, we estimate the unmitigated impact from tariffs to be approximately $65 million, representing an incremental $55 million impact on 2026. We're encouraged by the progress we've made in navigating these cost headwinds and remain focused on delivering gross margin within our aspirational value creation framework of 45% to 47%. While we are not providing formal guidance for 2026 at this time, based on what we know today, we expect gross margin to be between the lower end and midpoint of our aspirational range next year as we work to offset the tariff-related headwinds over time. Turning to our outlook. Fiscal year 2025 revenue is expected to be in the range of $1.855 billion to $1.87 billion, an increase of approximately 6.4% at the midpoint, and 5.6% on a constant currency basis compared to 2024 ongoing business. The impact of the 53rd week in fiscal 2025 is expected to provide a 60 basis point benefit to revenue growth. At the midpoint of the range, we expect Active Group revenue to grow low double digits on a constant currency basis, fueled by the momentum we built in our two largest brands, Merrell and Saucony. New products are resonating with consumers. Our key city strategy is driving focused international growth, and we're seeing continued success in expanding our lifestyle offering. We expect Work Group revenue to decline high single digits on a constant currency basis. As Chris shared, we haven't made the progress we expected in Work Group. While we're encouraged by recent steps in product innovation and marketing, the path to stronger, more consistent growth is taking longer than originally anticipated. We're excited to have Justin join the team, and we remain focused on improving execution across the four pillars of our strategy. Gross margin is expected to be approximately 47.1% at the midpoint of the range, up 280 basis points compared to the prior year. The majority of the improvement is driven by product cost savings, a healthier mix of full-price sales and a timing benefit from our tariff mitigation efforts, net of incremental tariff costs, reflecting the pace of our actions relative to the phasing of the cost increases. Adjusted operating margin is expected to be approximately 8.9% at the midpoint of the guidance range, up 160 basis points from the prior year. The year-over-year improvement reflects strategic reinvestment of a portion of gross margin gains to support our brand-building model, including marketing, talent and key capabilities. Interest and other expenses are projected to be approximately $27 million, down from $39 million in 2024 due to the reduction in net debt. The effective tax rate is projected to be approximately 16%. As a result, adjusted diluted earnings per share is expected to be in the range of $1.29 to $1.34, including a $0.02 foreign currency benefit versus the prior year. At the midpoint, this represents constant currency growth of 50% compared to last year. Operating free cash flow is expected in the range of $85 million to $95 million, with approximately $25 million of capital expenditures. Moving to our fourth quarter guidance, revenue is expected to be in the range of $498 million to $513 million, a year-over-year increase of approximately 2.2% at the midpoint and 0.5% on a constant currency basis. At the midpoint of the range and on a constant currency basis, we anticipate the Active Group revenue to grow high single digits and Work Group revenue to decline by low double digits compared to the prior year. Gross margin in the fourth quarter is expected to be approximately 46.3%, an increase of 270 basis points compared to last year. A portion of the improvement reflects a timing benefit from our tariff mitigation efforts, net of incremental tariff costs. Adjusted operating margin is expected to be approximately 10.5%, an increase of 60 basis points compared to last year. As a result, adjusted diluted earnings per share for the fourth quarter is expected to be in the range of $0.39 to $0.44 compared to $0.40 in the prior year. To summarize, we're encouraged by our third quarter and year-to-date 2025 performance as well as the expected continued momentum in the Active Group, which reflects the strength of our strategy and the discipline of our execution. At the same time, we recognize there's more work to do. We remain focused on driving consistency across the portfolio, sharpening our operational rigor and continuing to invest in areas that will fuel long-term growth. We're staying responsive and resilient as we manage through a dynamic macro backdrop, including the evolving consumer environment and tariff-related margin pressures. With that, let me hand the call back to Chris before we open it up for questions.
Thanks, Taryn. The company has made significant strides in becoming a builder of great global brands over the course of the past two years. We're squarely focused on our consumers. We're investing in our brands through enhanced product innovation and elevated marketing. Critically, we're prioritizing responsible brand management in the marketplace, focused on consistent brand experiences, thoughtful distribution decisions, reduced promotional activity, rigorous brand protection and driving sell-through. We believe Wolverine Worldwide is well positioned in the global marketplace and well positioned to navigate the dynamic and uncertain macro environment. We're executing our brand-building playbook with pace and urgency, all focused on making every day better for our consumers, our teams, our communities and our shareholders. With that, thank you to all of you for taking the time to be with us this morning, and we're happy to take your questions.
It looks like our first question today comes from the line of Peter McGoldrick with Stifel.
I was curious on the Saucony opportunity. Within the 25% constant currency growth, can you help parse the contribution from new distribution and like-for-like growth?
Yes. Thanks, Peter. We're really pleased with Saucony's performance in the quarter and certainly the performance year-to-date. We describe it really as broad-based categories and channels and regions, which we're encouraged by. I think if we had to put a number on the new distribution contribution for the quarter, about one-third.
Okay. That's really helpful. And then as we think of the split between lifestyle and performance, I was curious if you can help us think about how that splits within your footwear categories. And then as you plan the business going forward, how should we think of the balance between lifestyle footwear, everyday running, and then the high-performance running footwear?
Yes. Great question. I think you're hitting on something that was really important to us as we began to build a new strategy for Saucony several years ago. And thinking about both the elite performance run segment, the more casual everyday lifestyle runner and then certainly the lifestyle piece. And I think that reset of strategy has really helped us gain traction and certainly helped propel Saucony forward. The lifestyle piece is growing faster than the performance piece, but performance is also growing. And we're gaining share in both lifestyle accounts as well as the critical run specialty channel. So I'd say that we are encouraged that growth is coming from both parts. Certainly, our new entry into lifestyle coming off of a smaller base is helping to accentuate those year-over-year gains.
And our next question comes from the line of Mauricio Serna with UBS Financial.
Maybe just on Saucony to elaborate. It seems that you've had pretty good success with the expansion in lifestyle. I think you had alluded to 1,300 doors for fall '25. Any thoughts on where do you see that door count going into spring '26?
Yes. Good question. And certainly, we've been encouraged by the receptivity to the moves we've made in Saucony and certainly by that door expansion. We have opened doors in Saucony lifestyle. We've talked about that. We still believe that we're less than one-fourth of the full door potential. I would say that we're sort of maniacally looking at sell-throughs. One of the things that we're committed to is responsible brand management. And we want to make sure that where we open new distribution, where we go put ideas, we're really moving towards a pull model versus a push model. As we open new doors, we said early on that this would be a test and learn. Some doors are overperforming what we anticipated. A lot are performing at what we hoped and anticipated. And frankly, some doors are underperforming. We need to react to that change where the consumer is, learn from where we have momentum and how to capitalize on that responsibly. Where we aren't generating the sell-throughs that we want, we'll look to pivot away from that and diagnose what the issue is. I think the doors where we are underperforming on sell-through rates, we largely attribute to low brand awareness, which is something we're working on simultaneously with the brand as we invest more in marketing dollars. So something we're keenly watching. Every single week, we look at sell-throughs. We're staying very close to our customers and our consumers and making sure that as we drive this growth for the brand, we're doing it responsibly and managing for the long term.
And our next question comes from the line of Laurent Vasilescu with BNP Paribas.
I just wanted to ask about the fourth quarter, specifically regarding the active, high single-digit growth. Chris, could you elaborate on that in terms of expectations for Saucony? I also have a follow-up question about 2026.
Yes. I think for the fourth quarter for the Active Group, we remain encouraged by the progress we've made, the momentum that they've generated. Saucony, we anticipate it will be a little better than Merrell in the fourth quarter. At the same time, Saucony's comparisons are a little easier, given that Merrell is comping growth from 2024. But still encouraged. If you think about how we've talked about the business, our long-term value creation model, this company does extraordinarily well at mid- to high single-digit revenue growth in the consolidated. Our goal is to get all brands working at that pace and hopefully some better than that pace.
Okay. Very helpful, Chris. And I think in the beginning of the year, it was about 900 doors, then for the second half, it was about 400 doors. You mentioned right before that you're still under 25% penetration rate. What kind of numbers should we think about high level in terms of number of doors for spring 2026? And I'd love to hear more about unpacking what you're seeing in terms of the underperforming doors. I think you mentioned brand awareness, but can you just give us a little bit more color on what you're seeing, what measures you're going to put in place for those underperforming doors?
Yes. Good question, Laurent. We do anticipate first half of '26, the door count to be higher than the first half of '25. That's how we're thinking about the business. We're continuing to manage week-to-week with these accounts. In the doors that we have not met our sell-through expectations or our partner sell-through expectations, we are working to diagnose, and what performed better, men's or women's? How are the assortments? How are we merchandising? What was the consumer feedback? Then we're trying to triangulate that with our own data, our own e-commerce metrics, where our demographics and ZIP codes do we do better with. As we drive growth for the brand, we're ensuring that we manage responsibly.
And our next question comes from the line of Jonathan Komp with Baird.
Chris, if I could follow up, could you just maybe more directly talk to some of the sell-throughs you're seeing on more of a near-term basis? And as you think about heading into 2026, can you give a little more comfort or color on the indications you see for the Active Group into 2026 in terms of growth potential there? And then, Taryn, just to follow up, I appreciate the gross margin commentary for 2026. Should we think that you're at a near-term peak for margin here? Or given the timing of some of the tariff impacts, are there areas you can leverage to continue to drive operating margin expansion just at an initial level here as we look forward given the goal to get back to much higher multiyear operating margins?
I'll answer the first one. I think the question really is premised on expectations for Merrell and Saucony. I would say that Merrell and Saucony, our two biggest brands, are moving at pace. I am encouraged by the rigorous deployment of our playbook, how we've built the product pipeline, how we're working to create demand, and how the Wolverine Worldwide team is driving the business each day. We've talked about market share gains. Saucony gained share in the run specialty channel and has gained share in lifestyle. I think Merrell has 11 of 12 consecutive quarters of gaining share at a rate that's actually accelerating. Performance and lifestyle for Saucony grew in the quarter. Performance and lifestyle for Merrell grew in the quarter. It’s not easy days out there. Obviously, with everyone thinking about where the consumer is and how we head into the holiday, but I think we've got a lot of things going in the right direction.
And Jonathan, to your question on gross margins, we are pleased with the performance that we have made to date in terms of expanding our gross margin. For the full year, we are at around 47.1% for gross margin, up 280 basis points year-on-year. The primary drivers of that are the product cost savings that we've been driving with our supply chain organization, as well as more full-price sales. The tariff timing piece that I spoke to is providing 40 basis points of improvement year-on-year. The vast majority of that 280 improvement is the sustainable part of our business. In terms of tariffs, we did start taking actions early in the year to mitigate those headwinds, so the benefits started to materialize in the third quarter. The full impact of the higher tariffs will hit later.
Okay. And sorry, just to be more clear, I guess, thinking about operating margin, the 8.9% guide for this year is significant progress, still well below your mid-teens aspiration. Should we think that 2026 might be a step back on operating margin? Or are there other areas you could drive leverage to help manage through the tariff headwinds?
Yes. It's too early to talk details on 2026. We'll do that in February. We want to emphasize that our value creation model stays intact. It's just the timing of the tariffs that we're looking to offset. We will have more to share on '26 in a few months.
All right. Our next question comes from the line of Sam Poser with Williams Trading.
I'd just like to dig into Saucony a little bit more on the lifestyle side. Can you give us some idea of what's the breakdown between sell-in and sell-through on the lifestyle product? And then you mentioned, Chris, that you were seeing some changes between men's, women's and kids and so on. Can you give us some color on the sell-through rates on the rates you're seeing between them and how that may be balanced?
Yes, thanks, Sam, I appreciate the question. In the early stages of our lifestyle accounts, we are seeing some areas exceed our expectations, while many are performing within our target range. However, there are also regions where growth is slower. For us, responsibly managing inventory and our brand means we'll look to expand in areas where we've seen strong performance and reduce efforts where we've fallen short. We've made strides in the women's and kids' segments. Notably, our sizing for the lifestyle category is predominantly unisex, which has shown growth. We are concentrating on this segment and believe there is significant opportunity ahead.
And our next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva with Piper Sandler.
This is Noah on for Anna. So I just wanted to touch on Merrell. You had mentioned that the brand was in the early stages of evolving its distribution. Should it follow the same playbook as Saucony with additional new door step-up in specialty into the next year? And then have you quantified what that new door opportunity could look like? And then just a quick follow-up on Saucony. Can you remind us what brand awareness is now versus a few years ago?
Sure. As it relates to Merrell, the new door expansion isn't as great for Merrell as it is for Saucony. Saucony is a very well-distributed brand. For Merrell, it's more about the evolution of that distribution. We do see door count opportunity. The biggest opportunity in Merrell is moving beyond the trail and making both the trail lighter and faster, while capturing a broader outdoor lifestyle opportunity for the brand. As for brand awareness, we see awareness slightly up quarter-on-quarter. We measure it twice a year. We see awareness slightly up. But importantly, we see bigger movements in affinity and heat for the brand. That is driven by a shift in how we've chosen to invest our marketing dollars into upper funnel advertising and launching meaningful campaigns behind these brands to raise awareness and build strong brand affinity.
And our next question comes from the line of Mitch Kummetz with Seaport Research.
First one is, I'm just curious, was there any pull forward that occurred in the quarter that might explain some of the upside, the over-delivery in the quarter as well as why the fourth quarter growth rate maybe doesn't look as strong as 3Q? And then I also have a follow-up.
Yes, Mitch, I wouldn't point to any pull forward or timing shifts in the third quarter compared to the fourth quarter.
Okay. And then on Saucony, Chris, I think your comment around door count was that first half of '26 will be higher than the second half of '25. You added doors in the back half of '25. So I'm curious if 1H '26 is going to be above 2H '25 in terms of door count? And then also with some of these new doors that you've opened, I would imagine that the assortment going into those new doors wasn't a full assortment. And I'm curious with the doors that you recently added, let's say, for 1H '26, if you think that the doors that you've added in the last 12 months will have more product than what they had the prior year when you added those stores.
No, sorry, that was embedded in our remarks. I think first half of '26 will be fewer doors than second half of '25 because we're working to rationalize that door count in places that we've underperformed, move past those doors and go look for new growth opportunities.
And we have a follow-up question from Mauricio Serna.
Maybe could you elaborate on the DTC growth that you've seen for the Saucony brand in the quarter? How does that look? And then on SG&A, like it sounds like you're continuing to invest in demand creation and other long-term enablers. How should we think about that growth rate going into '26? Because I think part of the algorithm is to get some leverage to get to that aspirational mid-teens EBIT margin.
I'll talk about the DTC performance first. The quarter was generally in line with our expectations. In '25, we're really trying to prioritize for our DTC operations a couple of things: running a brand-accretive DTC business, making sure they build strong brand and emotional connections, while also being a profitable channel. In the quarter, we were encouraged to see Saucony up mid-teens in their e-commerce business. We're also seeing positive performance from Sweaty Betty U.K.
In terms of our value creation model, the revenue growth combined with our disciplined SG&A management are key to our growth algorithm. We're balancing making key strategic investments while expanding margins. This year, we've grown gross margins with sustainable solutions. We have been driving revenue and demand in the midst of inflationary environments while also keeping an eye on operational costs as we strive for that mid-teens EBIT margin.
And that does conclude our Q&A session today as well as today's conference call. Thank you all for joining today, and you may now disconnect. Have a great day, everyone.